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come in learn how to make a DIY louse bin – video included ! It ’s easy , inexpensive , and chop-chop turns food waste into amazing nutrient - fat compost that will serve your garden flourish . This post will explore the fundamentals of vermicomposting ( the term for composting with worms ) along withhow to starta simple insect compost bin or worm farm . We ’ll also cover how to properlymaintainyour worm bin , including hint for live or moth-eaten weather , what to feed it and how often , harvesting worm castings , and more .
Of the all the ways wecompost at abode , vermicompost is by far my favorite . When people ask why or how our garden look so lush and healthy , I find fault the dirt ball ! We ’ve had a worm farm for almost 15 years now , even when we lived in an flat .
We purchase our compost worm fromUncle Jim ’s Worm Farm .
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What is Vermicomposting?
Vermicomposting is a dash of composting with the assistance of worms . The prefixvermi - literally intend “ dirt ball ” . When added to a compost bin or pile , worm greatlyincrease the charge per unit ofdecomposition . This means you ’ll have ready - to - manipulation compost in no sentence !
In addition to the prompt turnover , there are a number of otherbenefitsto vermicomposting :
What are Worm Castings?
Worm castings , aka vermicastings , is a fancy full term forworm crap . Rich in nutrient and beneficial germ , worm molding are a marvelous well - balanced , slow - vent shape of natural fertilizer !
As worms eat and break down the food scraps , garden trimmings , bedding and other constitutive matter in a worm bin , the nutrient found in those material become highly - hard in the excreted worm castings . Even better , the nutrients become morebioavailable , have in mind the plant life can make exercise of them more readily ! Yet insect casting are also verygentleand can not “ burn ” your plants like other animate being manure or fertiliser can .
But that ’s not all ! When tote up to garden soil , worm castings also increase dirt aeration , drainage , biodiversity , and water retentiveness . Cornell Universityrefers to worm as aliving soil amendment . Learn more about thebenefits of worm castings for plantshere .
Supplies Needed
Here ’s a immediate list of the supplies you ’ll postulate to start a worm bin , with further account of each item below .
1) A Bin or Tub
There are plenty of corking worm - tug system out there , but inexpensive credit card storehouse bins or totes put to work perfectly ! It ’s what I ’ve always used . opt one that isdurable , heavy - obligation , and made ofnon - sheer plastic . ( worm like the dark . ) Also control the top chapeau sphere does n’t have any holes where pelting can seep in . The blue vat shown in this example is35 gallons , which works quite well . We ’ve made worm farms as heavy as 55 gallons and as lowly as 15 or 20 gallons . If you may need to move your louse bin on function ( such as to protect it from freezing in the wintertime – discussed more to follow ) , keep mobility and weight in thinker when choosing your binful size of it .
2) Bedding Material
Worm bin bedding is the bulk dry carbon material or “ browns ” in the bin , which is essential to balance the pie-eyed food waste or “ greens ” . Good worm bin bedding options includeshredded paper , rehydrated coco coir , ironical leaves , ironical grass clippings , brownish paper bags , shredded cardboard , or straw . Avoid decolorize white paper or glossy paper . Peat moss also is not advocate for worm farm bedding since it ’s too acidulent .
Bedding is used both to start a worm compost bin and added by and by during routine upkeep . We apply a combination of coco coir and shredded paper to set up our ABA transit number , and then switch over to newspaper publisher and teetotal folio thereafter . We also invested in abatic newspaper shredderto routinely shred paper for our bin .
3) Compost Worms
The most popular sort of worm used in worm bins are Eisenia fetida , commonly known as “ red wiggler “ . We get ours fromUncle Jim ’s Worm Farm . You could also look into to see if you fall out to last near a worm farm , and make a short field trip out of go to cull some up !
I recommend starting with1,000 - 2,000 worms(about 1 to 2 pounds ) for a 35 - gallon bank identification number or large , and half that for smaller bins . Under the right conditions , they can repeat their universe in just 90 twenty-four hours !
4) Dirt or Grit
In summation to bedding , worms need a little natural moxie to aid their digestive runway . We add few small scoopful of our aboriginal sandy soil to our insect farm . If you have clay soil , append some potting soil or else .
5) Food Scraps
Last but not least , you ’ll need some kitchen scrap or garden trimming to feed your worm . Do not put musty , decayed solid food in your worm bin ! Keep record below to learn more about “ feeding ” your louse farm , include the better things to add , material to avoid , how much , and how often to feed it .
Location: Where to Keep a Worm Bin
Ideally , a louse bin should be kept in asheltered locationthat is protect from extreme temperature swings . For example , in a umbrageous spot in the grand , gather along a shaded wall or fence , on a covered porch , or even in a laundry room or other indoor location . It may be necessary to move your insect farm to different locations depending on the time of twelvemonth .
Red wiggler compost worms are most well-chosen and combat-ready at temperatures ranging from55 to 85 ° F.Outside of that temperature cooking stove , they will decelerate down , eating and reproducing less . Therefore , you may involve to feed your insect bin less often during cold winter month to make up for their decreased activity . In extreme cold or heat , they may die .
Freezing temperatures below 35 ° F or hot temperature over 95 ° F can pop your compost worm .
However , the outdoor temperature is not the same as theinternal temperatureinside your dirt ball bin ! A well - maintained worm farm with fluffy , healthy bedding and molding can naturally buffer and protect itself from temperature lilt ( to some extent ) . Acompost thermometeris very handy for monitor the temperature inside the bin .
Here on the temperate Central Coast of California , our worm happily live out-of-door year round with no added shelter . Yet we have experience vermicomposting in much more challenging mood too ! We ’ll talk abouteasy ways to protect your binfrom undue heating or block conditions in themaintenance sectionto follow .
Instructions to Make a Worm Bin
1) Add Air Holes
The first step to make a worm bin is to supply some air holes to your chosen container , which facilitate with fresh air exchange and preclude the binful from have too red-hot or dead . Using a quarter - in Mandrillus leucophaeus bit , we add up a couple dozen atmosphere hole around thesides of the bank identification number near the top . See exposure below . Be certain to make the holes little enough to keep cuss ( e.g. rodents ) out !
Should I add drainage holes to my worm bin?
No , there areNO hole in the bottomof this DIY worm bin . A well - maintain bin does not need drainage muddle since it should n’t get overly squiffy . We ’ll keep the wet and consistence on period with the right counterbalance of make love to food ( discussed in the eating / maintenance part to follow ) . Plus , if you lend holes in the bottom , theworms willescapethe bin !
Some pre - made louse farm come with a drainage catchment , but the liquid that seep from an overly wet bin is considered leachate , not lawful “ worm tea ” or “ compost tea” . Leachateis stagnant and anaerobic ( mean without air ) and lacks many of the good germ found in proper compost tea . See our usher on makingaerated compost tea with worm castingsto learn more .
2) Add Bedding
Next , it ’s prison term to partially fulfil your DIY worm bin with “ brown ” bedding material such as dry leaves , shredded paper , cardboard , dry Gunter Wilhelm Grass clippings , stubble , and/or cardboard . The amount does n’t need to be accurate , but aim to fill up the binabout a quarter full . The more fine the bedding textile is , the faster the insect can snap off it down . For instance , it ’s better to use smaller bits of composition board instead of turgid clod .
In this example , we used a mix of shredded newspaper and coco coir . I really care using coco coir bedding to start a worm bin because it ’s has perfect o.k. fluffy consistency and fantabulous moisture retentivity . Unlike peat moss , coco coir has a neutral pH – apotheosis for a dirt ball farm . See more details about using and rehydrating coco coir below .
3) Dampen Bedding
Now , lightly wash the bedding material with a modest amount of pee . A happy , intelligent worm compost bin should always beslightly damp but never sloppy . An easy way to call back is : the ideal body is that of a wrung - out sponge . Start little , stir , assess , and then bestow more water system if needed . It ’s easier to add more than take it back !
louse have it away moist environments , but also need air because they respire through their skin . With too much water , they can and will drown . That ’s why you see globe worms number to the soil aerofoil when it rain – to get air ! Plus , an overly stiff worm bin is how they get gross and crappy .
Rehydrating coco coir
Coco coir comes in dehydrated bricks and must berehydratedand bodge up before append it to your worm bin . We already had a10 - pound brick of organic coco coiron hand , but I knew it was too much so I cut in half with a power saw and only used half ( or about 5 pounds for a 35 - gallon bin ) . It would be gentle to grease one’s palms severalsmaller 1 - pound bricksinstead .
To rehydrate coco coir , I recommend position it in a freestanding container ( just in pillowcase you do n’t want to use it all ) and then add just a little spot of water at a prison term . Remember , the finish is to create damp bedding , but not sopping wet ! So tot some water , wait for it to absorb , then bestow more as involve until it ’s all smash up and nicely moisten .
4) Add Worms
It is authoritative to have your worm bin and beddingready and waitingbefore your worms go far so you may get those sodomist put to bed straight by ! Like any of us would be after a tenacious route trip-up or flight , they ’ll likely be a bit petulant upon comer and need a collation and a nap , pronto . Upon reaching , dig a footling hole in the moist bedding . tote up some solid food as explicate below , dump in the worm , andcover themup with more bedding . Finally , we like to add a damp layer of newsprint on top , which helps to keep them in the bin , explain more below .
Why are my worms trying to escape the bin?
When you first go down up your new insect compost bin , it’snot uncommonfor louse to creep up the sides and endeavor to get out . They ’re just a little wigged out by their new environment . To help keep ‘ em in and happy , their environment take behow they like it : the right moisture stage in the bin ( damp but not doughy ) , enough of the right nutrient to eat up , and plenty dark .
A trick to help prevent worms from crawling out of a new bin is to localize a few sheets ofdamp newspaper on topof the “ soil ” cumulation inside the bank identification number . Go back and check the binful after a day . Ours will sometimes bunch up around the hat and plow portion of the bin . Put them back under the damp paper . Fast forward a couple week . If worms are still trying to run away from an established worm bin ? That may be a sign that there ’s a problem with the bin , like not enough oxygen , too much acidic food , too wet of stipulation . Try fluffing up the bin with fresh bedding and/or nutrient , or adjust the wet level as needed .
5) Feeding a Worm Bin
Now it ’s time to start feed these hungry small baby ! The right type and amount of food is primal to maintaining a goodish , well-chosen , and odorless worm compost bin . First lease ’s sing about about what to run them , and then we ’ll hash out amount and frequency .
When you define up anew worm bin , add just a few handfuls of food at first . moderate back in a few day to see how much they ’ve eaten and go from there .
What Food to Add or Avoid
Worms , believe it or not , do have some druthers in regards to their food . sure thing need to be forefend altogether – for their health and the wellness of the compost bin .
affair that aregoodor O.K. to put in worm compost bin include :
Avoidadding these things to your worm bin :
How Much and How Often
Under the optimal conditions , worms can deplete their body weight unit per day ! That means if you started out with 2 pounds of worms , they could theoretically feed through 2 pounds of food for thought scrap per Clarence Shepard Day Jr. . As their population grows inside the bin , they can consume even more . When it ’s cold outside , they slack down and consume far less .
We prefer to tip our worm bin on aweeklybasis , storing up food for thought permissive waste in acompost crockunder the kitchen sink between alimentation . The soot has a carbon filter , so it does n’t get smelly or pull fruit flies .
I paint a picture toerr on the materialistic side . If you tot more more intellectual nourishment than your worm can wipe out in a reasonable amount of time , it will rot and go anaerobic instead . That will result in astinky , grossbin … and no one wants that !
With meter , you ’ll find out to pass judgment how much food your louse can eat in a workweek . If after a week later there is no food left at all , you’re able to increase how much you ’re yield them . Or , even bring in a mid - hebdomad bite . However , if there is a bunch of nutrient remnant , you should scale back and feed them less quantity each week .
How to Feed a Worm Bin
A nasty - smelling insect bin is commonly the result of too much nutrient , too little Robert Brown , too much moisture , and too piffling air .
General Maintenance
Thankfully , dirt ball farm are fairly fuss - costless once you get the hang of them . The main task is to keep them routinely bumble and fed . Yet it is important to keep an optic on the moisture content as well as extreme temperatures to keep your worms good and well-chosen .
Moisture and air
In addition to the right proportionality of food to bedding , the key fruit to maintain a levelheaded , pleasant - smelling , biologically - fighting worm bin is the right-hand amount of air and moisture . Remember , the goal is dampish but never soggy .
Fluff and stir the binweekly ( or every other week ) to break up gravid clumps and introduce air before adding novel food or bedding . Beneficial microbes also enjoy aerobic environments .
If your bin seemssoggy and stinky , evoke in more sliced newspaper , leaves , composition board bit , or other fresh brown stuff throughout the entire bank identification number to serve engulf the wet .
If the bank identification number seemstoo dryon the other deal , give it a wanton shower with the hosiery or lachrymation can – but go easy!Start humble , hustle , assess , and then water . you may always add more water if need , but it ’s more difficult to dry out an overly sozzled bin if you overdo it .
Worm bins in the winter
louse bins need to be protected from freeze , and they also immensely reduce their activity in inhuman conditions . If temperatures below 32 ° F are the norm for you during wintertime , plan consequently . Can you permanently locate ormove your worm bin insidea service department , shed , wash room , or other spare space to facilitate protect them ?
When we live in an flat in Providence , Rhode Island ( brrrr ) , our worm farm lived outside our room access in a shared uninsulated stairwell . It got * almost * as cold as out of doors , which was exclusive digits in the winter ! We wrapped the ABA transit number in a large fleece blanket to helpinsulate it . Wool blanketswould be even good .
you may also facilitate insulate the bin withdeep mulchinside the bin , such as a bed of cardboard plus a lot of leaves on top . Ours were n’t all that active in the Rhode Island winter , but they survived . Our fresh homestead has an occasional hard freeze and we often blank out to protect them at all . They’re tough little guys .
Worm bins in the summer
Temperatures over 95F can also kill worm . In the heat of the summertime , emphatically keep your worms in ashady spotwith well airflow . If it ’s unhinged hot out , can you move the bin indoors to a more cool location ? Keep your dirt ball ABA transit number aside from radiant heat reservoir , like a hot south - facing wall .
If you ca n’t move your bin to a cooler location , and it ’s projected be over 95 ° F , the following beat can helpkeep a dirt ball bank identification number cooler :
All that said , we keep a worm compost bin for years while we lived in Chico , CA where summertime temperatures were on a regular basis over 100 ° F and on occasion over 110 ° F ! We misplace the worms only once in a prolong heat waving . Other multiplication , some died but some survive , so the population bounce back once the conditions improved . Back then , I did n’t do many of the intervention technique I just trace . I was a fussy , disquiet college student – and the worms did hunky-dory . Try not to stress about it too much !
If you ’re worried about temperature extremes , keep in mind that louse binful are utterly fine to keep indoors year - round . An Instagram follower once told me she hid a louse bin under her kitchen sink for over 6 calendar month before her nay - saying hubby even noticed . Back in Chico , my environmental studies department had a worm bin right in the office . Worms make very well - behaved office pets !
We have just cover are all the cardinal element you need to make and maintain a simple insect compost bin ! I ’m sure you ’re curious … what about in reality using the compost though ?
How to Harvest Worm Castings
Once you ’ve had your binful up and run for a few month , you could start harvesting small amounts of ruined compost – insect castings ! With time , you’re able to step by step harvest more and more as your population grows and they part turning more of the bin over . We add worm castings to every planting hole whentransplanting seedlings outside , and the plants do it it !
Here is our guide onhow to harvest worm castingsfrom a worm farm . In short , we feed the worms on just one side of the binful for several week so they will migrate there . Then we can harvest the castings from the opposite side of the binful , go as few worm as possible . Finally , we sift the castings with a DIY screen to catch any tumid chunks ( or louse ) and toss them back into the bin .
Demonstration video: setting up a new worm bin
That is how we vermicompost.
Do n’t overleap these related articles :
How to Make a Worm Compost Bin (Worm Farm)
Equipment
Instructions
Notes
